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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. However, tucked prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest shop securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.